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IID
06-01-2011, 04:06 PM
I am a big fan of all the super coatings that are offered (Optimum Opti-Coat/Guard,CarPro CQuartz).They perform well for ease of maintenance cleaning,helping to prevent marring and IMO leave a nice shine/finish on a variety colors of vehicles I applied them to.
There is another one out there that not to many people have committed about or reviewed that they have used it,and that would be GTechniq C1 (Crystal Lacquer NanoCoat).
I have tried almost every product offered from GTechniq and can say for me,they work extremely well (especially G1,C4 and C5):
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1161/medium/C1_001.jpg

But today I wanted to try out the C1 NanoCoating:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1161/medium/C1_003.jpg

I wanted to test the C1 against CQuartz for performance,especially against hard water spots that seem to be of a small issue for me.The vehicle that will be the guinea pig for the test will be one of my daily driver that already has a coat of CQuartz on it:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1161/medium/C1_004.jpg

So for my little test,i'm going to apply C1 to the passenger side of the hood.So I taped off this section for polishing to remove the CQuartz:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1161/medium/C1_007.jpg

For polishing I'll be using GTechniq's P1 and My Flex PE14-2-150 and a LC orange thin (7/8") 5.5" buffing pad:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1161/medium/C1_006.jpg

After polishing and removing the CQuartz:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1161/C1_007.jpg

Even thou the P1 contains No polishing oils or fillers
Quote from GTechniq about P1
"P1 is a very different kind of polish. Breakthroughs in nano-structured composite materials allowed us to develop an incredibly uniform abrasive particle on the nanoscopic scale. This allows us to manufacture a polish that requires almost no lubrication, which offers three important advantages.

The first is speed / effort. With many more active particles working the surface, the polish works faster with less effort than traditional compound abrasives.

Secondly with virtually no lubricant, a P1 finish doesn't suffer "drop back". This is where the lubricants in a traditional polish hide minor imperfections, typically micro scratches in the polished surface, only for them to be revealed after the lubricants have washed off. With P1 what you see is what you get.


Finally, temperature. Or to be more precise, the lack of it. Smaller active particle size means the surface doesn't heat up nearly as much as with conventional abrasives. This means much less likelihood of burning through paint and it also means you can make several passes over the same area to remove stubborn scratches, without fear of over polishing."

I still decided to do a wipe down with OPC and IsopropylAlcohol(mixed with water 4:1) to make sure there was no polish residue present:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1161/C1_008.jpg

When I sprayed the area with water after wiping down with OPC and Iso,there was no beading and when wiping to dry it was clear the CQuartz was polished off:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1161/C1_009.jpg

Squeaky clean,prepped, and dried,ready for the C1:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1161/C1_010.jpg

Just for half the hood,I dabbed my applicator with C1:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1161/C1_011.jpg

and start to apply to the hood.I noticed the C1 has a consistancy and ease of spread ability like CQuartz (a little goes a longgg way):
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1161/C1_012.jpg

The C1's application is humidity sensitive and cures rather quick.You are to apply the C1 to the area you want coated and wipe off (lightly,NOT BUFF) gently immediately after.Approximately 70% of the curing cycle occurs in the first 2-10min.(depending on humidity),with 100% of the curing time within 3hrs.

After wiping lightly the applied C1:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1161/C1_013.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1161/C1_014.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1161/C1_015.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1161/medium/C1_016.jpg

The CQuartz side,I put the (CQ) bottle in the picture just for reference as the CQ has been applied for several months:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1161/medium/C1_017.jpg

C1:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1161/medium/C1_018.jpg

CQuartz:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1161/medium/C1_019.jpg

I can say that both the C1 and the CQuartz have look similar,almost a glass like appearance.The Humidity was around 60% and the C1 wiped away rather easily.I'm going to monitor both sides after rain showers and washing to see if either side shows a noticeable gain for repelling water spots over one another.
I'll also confirm that the C1 cleans as well as the CQuartz and holds true to marr resistance.

richy
06-01-2011, 04:43 PM
Chris, I'm gonna be a lazy bugger and copy over my response from AG. Feel free to respond only once if you want:

Chris, I was really looking forward to hearing your thoughts on this, expecially as you have lots of experience with the other 2. The thing I have heard with this is that it needs to be removed sooner than later, unlike CQ that it really doesn't matter that much how long it sits prior to removal. (That's been my experience anyway). You mentioned it cures within 3 hours. What is the time frame for the surface hardness to be at its maximum? With CQ it's 7 days as it is with OC. Just curious to see how it compared in that regard. Looking forward to your updates.
BTW, the P1 sounds very interesting. What would you compare it to with cut and work time and how it finishes down?

IID
06-01-2011, 04:49 PM
Chris, I'm gonna be a lazy bugger and copy over my response from AG. Feel free to respond only once if you want:

Chris, I was really looking forward to hearing your thoughts on this, expecially as you have lots of experience with the other 2. The thing I have heard with this is that it needs to be removed sooner than later, unlike CQ that it really doesn't matter that much how long it sits prior to removal. (That's been my experience anyway). You mentioned it cures within 3 hours. What is the time frame for the surface hardness to be at its maximum? With CQ it's 7 days as it is with OC. Just curious to see how it compared in that regard. Looking forward to your updates.
BTW, the P1 sounds very interesting. What would you compare it to with cut and work time and how it finishes down?

Hahaha,No problem Richy.I answered your questions on the AG thread.
I'll paste them here as well:

Hey Richy.I was just heading out the door to go help my brother with a vehicle issue but thought I would check this thread before I left.

I actually have a call into GTechniq about the hardness curing time.It is published thou that the C1 is fully cured at 3hrs.I'll let you know when I find out.
The P1 is a product I would compare to Menz PF but consider that the P1 is also pad sensitive.The P1 does NOT dust at all but you have to watch that you do NOT work the product before it dries out but that has not been the case for me yet because the working time is almost as long as Menz PF.The pictures that I posted after using the P1 (before applying C1) show that it finished down LSP ready and I didn't have to use the P2.Other paints hardness/softness may and probley will react differently but with my Chrysler,I was good to go.
Hope this helps?
I'll get back to this post on the hardness factor ;)

IID
06-02-2011, 05:48 AM
The C1 is fully hardened (Cured) after 12hrs,no matter what the temp.(Rob:GTechniq)
He said in the Summer,3hrs should be all that is needed for full cure.

CEE DOG
06-02-2011, 06:13 AM
Chris, thank you for the excellent writeup and pictures :thumb::thumb:

I copy pasted it here and removed the link.

richy
06-02-2011, 09:31 AM
The C1 is fully hardened (Cured) after 12hrs,no matter what the temp.(Rob:GTechniq)
He said in the Summer,3hrs should be all that is needed for full cure.

OK, thanks for clarifying that. I am going to be watching for updates on this thread. Thanks for taking it on.

KIOS3R
06-02-2011, 10:12 AM
hola IID,,
i wanna ask about P1,
how do u use that polish? i have P1 but i always have a problem with application,, it's always dry too soon, maybe about 4 pass, and i cant remove it from the panel,, do u have same problem with me?

Old Tiger
06-02-2011, 11:06 AM
hola IID,,
i wanna ask about P1,
how do u use that polish? i have P1 but i always have a problem with application,, it's always dry too soon, maybe about 4 pass, and i cant remove it from the panel,, do u have same problem with me?

Yes after letting it dry too long. Try a waterless wash. It worked forr me.

Carlos
06-02-2011, 09:12 PM
Sweet, I was just doing some window shopping on GTechniq line up, like you I too am very, very interested on these supper sealants. I absolutely love the innovation and these super sealants sure get my attention.

Any who, I look frorward on seeing updates on this thread and the durability of these two super sealants :popcorn:

Thank you for sharing :peace:

CEE DOG
06-03-2011, 07:01 AM
hola IID,,
i wanna ask about P1,
how do u use that polish? i have P1 but i always have a problem with application,, it's always dry too soon, maybe about 4 pass, and i cant remove it from the panel,, do u have same problem with me?

Kresna, I only used it for the first time just last week with the rotary but I did not have the issue you speak of.

IID
06-03-2011, 07:20 AM
hola IID,,
i wanna ask about P1,
how do u use that polish? i have P1 but i always have a problem with application,, it's always dry too soon, maybe about 4 pass, and i cant remove it from the panel,, do u have same problem with me?
I lay a bead (6"-7") down and pick it up with my Flex PE,using 5.5" low profile pad and go to town.For me,it always has great working time.I never had it dry out on me (using rotary).
Maybe it's more humid where you are?:shrug:

Old Tiger
09-09-2011, 08:47 PM
Chris, got any updates?

IID
09-10-2011, 10:25 AM
Chris, got any updates?

Hey Jim,thanks for the reminder.
Yes,I do have an update.
Here is what I noticed with the C1.It definitely has better water spot repellency than the CQuartz.I didn't take any side by side pictures but I can personally tell you that the CQuartz was problematic for me in water spots showing their ugly head,if my DD was caught in the rain and then parking the DD in the garage.When the rain drops would dry,the side with the CQ looked about 60% more contaminated with the spots over the side with the GTech C1 applied.
Since this thread,I have used the C1 more and more.The more I use the C1,the more I'm liking it.
The C1 does also seem to be more user friendly for application purposes.I know the CQuartz is not as time sensitive for removal as the C1 but if you apply and remove the C1 in considerable amount of time,it removes (disappears in the paint) very easily.
They are both (CarPro CQuartz & GTechniq C1)very much admired as a part of my detailing supplies BUT after using both products for some time now,the leading edge goes to C1 ;)

richy
09-10-2011, 10:44 AM
Hey Jim,thanks for the reminder.
Yes,I do have an update.
Here is what I noticed with the C1.It definitely has better water spot repellency than the CQuartz.I didn't take any side by side pictures but I can personally tell you that the CQuartz was problematic for me in water spots showing their ugly head,if my DD was caught in the rain and then parking the DD in the garage.When the rain drops would dry,the side with the CQ looked about 60% more contaminated with the spots over the side with the GTech C1 applied.
Since this thread,I have used the C1 more and more.The more I use the C1,the more I'm liking it.
The C1 does also seem to be more user friendly for application purposes.I know the CQuartz is not as time sensitive for removal as the C1 but if you apply and remove the C1 in considerable amount of time,it removes (disappears in the paint) very easily.
They are both (CarPro CQuartz & GTechniq C1)very much admired as a part of my detailing supplies BUT after using both products for some time now,the leading edge goes to C1 ;)

Hmmm..interesting. Not what I expected to hear to be honest. How do they compare cost wise? What application method are you using for the C1? The other thing, Chris, is have you tried the 119 yet? I will be soon, depending on what Heath finds out next week.

CEE DOG
09-10-2011, 10:46 AM
Thanks for the updates Chris! Your experiences and posts are always appreciated by many. I haven't tried the C1 yet myself. Can I ask, are you referring to the CQ that is being sold now (the one with the hologram stickers) or the older version?

:cheers:

IID
09-10-2011, 12:08 PM
Hmmm..interesting. Not what I expected to hear to be honest. How do they compare cost wise? What application method are you using for the C1? The other thing, Chris, is have you tried the 119 yet? I will be soon, depending on what Heath finds out next week.
Not what I expected either Richy.
As far as the cost,they are relatively equal:
CQuartz 30ml @ $59.99
C1 30ml @ $67.95 (Thank You Ranney)
The application of the C1 is done the same way as I use the CQuartz.I use the CarPro foam block with the blue square CarPro MF's.

I have NOT tried the SystemX Element119 yet,thou I was one of the first to mention it over at AG.Received a PM not to discuss that one as well over there :(
I do have some on order but i'm running out of personal vehicles to try new products on,before I use them on customers vehicles.
Suppose I could strip a panel on one of my vehicles of OG,OC,CQ,C1,Nanolex :shead:


Thanks for the updates Chris! Your experiences and posts are always appreciated by many. I haven't tried the C1 yet myself. Can I ask, are you referring to the CQ that is being sold now (the one with the hologram stickers) or the older version?

:cheers:

Thank you for the kind words Corey :)
The applied CQuartz in this thread on the hood of my Chrysler is the old version but I have not seen a huge improvement on other vehicle body panels with the "New" version :roleyes:

Old Tiger
09-22-2011, 09:29 PM
Great update Chris!

rfinkle2
09-23-2011, 09:01 AM
Thanks for the great write-up. It may have been the pics, as well as duration that the C-quartz had been applied, but to me the c1 looked noticeably glossier.

IMO, water spot resistance is the variable that will make or break a coating.

IID
09-23-2011, 06:51 PM
Great update Chris!
Thank You Jim


Thanks for the great write-up.

IMO, water spot resistance is the variable that will make or break a coating.

You are most welcome :)

Exactly on the water spot resistance!